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Literally
every kind of wine under the sun is available here, Catalan wines,
Manchego wines, Riojan wines, Galician wines, Basque wines, Murcian
wines, Castilla-Leon wines and many, many more. Each has its own
colour, aroma and taste, exemplifying the very individuality of these
regions themselves. And they're good too. After all, their makers
have been at it for long enough.
Today, there is so much it is almost mind-boggling
and tackling it all is a formidable task. The first step might be to
get a little understanding of what Spanish wine is all about, how it
is classified, the grape varieties, and some practical tips.
RED
Though ordering by the region is still far and
away the most common method in Spain, grape variety awareness has
increased over the years. Both foreign and domestic varieties abound,
and even some little known local varieties have resurged. Here's a
sample of what you can get.
Tempranillo:
Many consider it the country's finest and most noble contribution to
the wine world. It plays a major role in some of Spain's most
prominent regions such as Rioja, Navarra, Ribera del Duero (where it
known as Tinto fino or Tinta del país) and La Mancha (called
Cencibel) and can now be found practically anywhere else. It is a
very well-balanced grape. Not only does it age very well but also it
is also capable of coming up with fine fruity young wines.
Garnacha (grenache):
The mostly widely-planted red grape in Spain, Garnacha for years
earned a name as a kind of work-horse for the wine industry. However
it tended to go bad quickly though, and that made the much revered
aged wine a far reach. In the last few years, it has made an enormous
turn-around. In certain regions, like Priorat, it has proved capable
of producing wine for blending of quality light-years beyond anyone's
wildest dreams, and we are seeing a resurgence of this fine variety.
Garnacha produces fruity and intense, often hearty, reds, and in
Navarra, it is the backbone of most of the region's exceptional rosés.
Mazuela or
Cariñena (carignan) Has for long
been in the same boat as Garnacha. Carignan actually gets its name
from the Spanish wine region Cariñena, where, ironically, it
is about as common as coconuts. Cariñena is a high in acid and
ages well, making it a wonderfully key figure in blending.
Mencía:
Grape variety closely related to the Cabernet Franc. It is very
popular in León and Galicia and yields a dark red, fruity
perfumed wine. Though some wineries are toying with aging, its best
virtues tend to appear in young wine.
Monastrell (Mouvédre):
Popular in south eastern Spain, (Jumilla, Yecla, etc.), this variety
stands out for making somewhat dry reds as well as appreciable sweet
dessert wines. Few biological specimens could do as well in the
punishing heat of Murcia as this one. You would think it was a
cactus. Great on its own and compatible with other grapes like
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Others include Bobal, Graciano, Prieto
Picudo, Negramoll, Listán, Manto Negro
Those are the local ones (there's a whole slew of
other minor ones), but you will also find the foreigners making their
presence known. Here are the biggest for reds: Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Syrah (becoming very popular)
WHITE:
Albariño:
Lately the jewel of Galician white wine. Fruity and very smooth.
This grape has been the force behind Galicia's incredible revival and
its wine has become Spain's undisputed superstar in the white wine
world. It's very fruity and crisp. Fermentation in the cask is on the
rise with some stunning results.
Verdejo:
One of Spain's most well-established whites. Grown primarily in the
small region of Rueda, these whites are famous for being dry and full
of character.
Viura (Macabeo):
Pale and light and low in acid, this white is popular in many parts
of northern Spain with irregular results. It also contributes to
Catalonia's cava.
Airén:
The big one in La Mancha. Probably the most widely planted vine on
earth, and exclusive to Spain. Traditionally a good example of the
more the worse, but that characteristic is changing. It may never be
an outstanding variety, but some feel that it is sorely under rated
and that it can produce some pleasant wine.
Godello:
Another Galician goody. Well in the shadow of Albariño, it has
made a strong case for its reputation of late. Highly aromatic, it
can be somewhat softer than Albariño.
Treixadura:
Used mainly for Ribeiro, traditionally Galicia's most famous wine.
Moscatel (Muscatel):
Common on the east coast of Spain and used for traditional sweet
dessert wines. Malvasía Though found on the mainland and used
for sweet and semi-sweet wines, much of its fame originated in the
Canary Islands during the 16th and 17th Century. It has made a
notable comeback of late.
Palomino:
When you think of sherry, this is the one you want to thank. Light
and fresh, it is also found in other northern regions of the country.
Pedro Ximénez:
This one is common in Malaga and Montilla-Moriles. The screw-top
bottle looks suspicious, but the sweet wines often earn raving reviews.
And, of course, we cannot forget a few friends
from abroad: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (Common in Rueda), Riesling
What exactly does Crianza mean?
The Spanish have always been crazy about aged
wine. In the past, anything briefer than a turtle's lifespan seemed
just plain inadequate if the wine was to rise to immortality. Thank
God that mentality has taken the route of the VHS videotape. Today,
there are great wines both young and old. Nonetheless, aging is still
a common technique and a source of countless classic labels from all
over the country.
You may have (or may not have) come across the
word "crianza" before in your life. It is sometimes a
source of confusion because it actually has two meanings. In a larger
sense it refers to the general aging of wine in a barrel and bottle.
This practice can be broken down into three categories:
Crianza:
Overall aging: 2 years. 6 months in a barrel and 18 months in a
bottle before going to market. Here's the other meaning. Whenever you
see it on your bottle, more often than not it refers to this specific
period of maturing.
Reserva:
Overall aging: 3 years. 12 months in a barrel and 24 months in a bottle.
Gran Reserva:
Overall aging: 5 years. 24 months in a barrel and 36 months in a
bottle. That's a good way to raise expectations.
Many regions follow these guidelines but the
specifics can vary from one to the next. Plus, there are many fancy
new-style wines which adhere to their own aging processes and which
have nothing to do with the traditional methods. Another ever-increasingly
popular method is the one termed "Roble" or "En
barrica". These are wines with a hint of wood barrel aging.
If you don't see any of these terms printed on the
label, or if your wine doesn't cost three hundred euros, more often
than not it is a young wine and should be drunk as soon as possible
from the vintage printed.
A look at
One Wine Region
The former information should prepare you to take
on the Spanish wine experience. You will be familiar with world
renowned giants like Rioja. This remains Spain's premier region in
terms of recognition, exposure and, in many ways, overall quality,
especially in the red wine department. When you're not a 100%
sure and don't want to take any chances, you can almost always count
on a Rioja to pull you through. But you also have rising-star reds
from Ribera del Duero, Toro, Priorat, Jumilla and La Mancha, as well
as fantastic Albariños from Galicia and refreshing rosés
from Navarra. The list just goes on and on, so let's just look at at one.
D.O. Rueda
Here's a white wine region nestled in the very
heart of red wine land, Castilla y León. It's called D.O.
Rueda and it has comfortably wedged its way into the Madrid market as
the white wine to drink. Nowadays, if you order a white in the
capital without specifying, this is probably what you'll get. About
thirty years ago, Rueda wines looked, smelled and tasted nothing like
the ones we enjoy today. The classic Rueda was a sherry-like wine,
slowly oxidized in a big dark glass container. It took the foresight
of a legendary Rioja winery, Marqués de Riscal, to turn things
around in the 1970s. Now the region produces some of Spain's finest
whites, and at great prices too.
The local variety is called Verdejo, but
Sauvignon Blanc has adapted very well here as well. Verdejo has an
apple-like aroma to it, as opposed to Sauvignon, where tropical fruit
dominates. Verdejos are crisp, dry wines. Sauvignons are a little
more fruity. If you feel your nose is up to it, give it a whiff and
see if you can detect these characteristics.
Ruedas can be split up into three categories.
Since the information stated on the bottle isn't always very
explicit, follow these rules;
Rueda. If it just says Rueda, that generally means
it has 50% Verdejo and 50% from another variety such as Viura.
Verdejo. Means all or most of the wine is Verdejo.
Sauvignon Blanc. Most or all is Sauvignon Blanc.
You may also find red wines, but they have just
arrived on the scene and need time to improve.
With the passing of each year, the offer expands
and Ruedas are now fairly frequently sighted at wine shops abroad.
Whether you are in your country or in Spain, especially in the center
of the country, here is a selection of a few Ruedas you might like to try:
Cuatro Rayas Verdejo, Veliterra Rueda, Mantel
Blanco Verdejo, Martilli Sauvignon (also the Verdejo is very nice),
Aura Verdejo, Palacio de Bornos (both Verdejo and Sauvignon), Castelo
de Medina, Doña Beatriz, Carrasviñas Sauvignon, Oro de
Castilla Sauvignon (also Verdejo Jóven), Marqués de
Irán Verdejo, Veracruz Verdejo, Marqués de Riscal
(Sauvignon, Verdejo and Limousin), Naia Jóven, Blanco Nieva
These wines are still a steal compared to other
hip regions, many going for less than 5 Euros, so they are an
excellent way to start out on Spanish whites without paying a hefty
price. They go well with fish, seafood, soups and fresh cheese.
In Short
D.O. Rueda (Province of Valladolid, Comunidad
Autónoma Castilla y León)
Famous for Dry whites made from Verdejo and fruity
ones using Sauvignon Blanc.
How to Visit the Region
Head 100 miles straight up the highway from Madrid
to Galicia (A-6) and you can't miss it. Rueda has its own exit and
many of the wineries are located there.
Sangria
Sangria is a dangerously delicious wine punch
which has done for Spain what Irish coffee has done for the Emerald
Isle. Basically the only ones who drink it are the tourists. The word
"sangria" actually comes from English for crying out loud!
Can you find it? Of course you can. Is it that common? Of course it
isn't. Unless you roam around the coast of Spain where, what do you
know, all the tourists are!
Sherry
80% of all sherry produced is commercialised
outside Spain. That should give you an idea of who really drinks the
stuff. Inside the country, it's mostly drunk in the land where it is
produced, Andalusia in the South. Yes, you can find a bottle in
nearly every bar in the country, but you won't find many people
ordering it.
Though you can find practically every kind of
wine, predictably the most important are reds, whites, rosés,
sherries and sparkling wine (called cava).
Spain is primarily a red-wine drinking country and thus its widest
array lies there, but the others are readily available everywhere too.
Denominaciones de Origen (D.O.)
Most Spanish wine that we, as consumers, are
concerned with is classified under a regulating system known as
Denominaciones de Origen (D.O.), which translates as
"Appellation" or "Official Wine-producing Region".
In short, an official wine region with its own
governing body and rules. It tells us that the wine we are buying is
truly from the specified region and that it adheres to the
characteristics, which give it its fame. It may not guarantee the
quality, but at least you know where it comes from and that some kind
of control is behind it.
Why should knowing the D.O. be important to you?
Think of it this way: the average Spaniard goes more by the region
than by the grape variety. Aside from very specialized wine bars,
rarely do you enter a bar to order a Chardonnay or Syrah. Normally,
you'll say a Rioja, a Ribera del Duero, a Toro, or simply "un
vino tinto"!
In fact, a lot of Spaniards don't even know what
grape goes into their wine -- and often don't care. So, it definitely
helps to bear this mind whether you are at restaurant table or
perusing through the shelves of your local wine store. Here's a
breakdown so you can impress your listeners at your next Spanish party:
Denominación de Origen (D.O.)
The standard appellation that ensures you that the wine is from the
place it says it is and that it meets many of the standards that make
it typical of a wine from that region. They are controlled by a
regulating board whose mission is to see to it that the wine Juan is
making goes by the rules and that the grapes Jorge is growing are
succulent and perfect for winemaking. The board also delineates the
varieties admitted into the D.O., the range of crop yield, and aging
techniques, to name just a few. When buying a wine from anyone
one of these official regions, look for the words
"Denominación de Origen" or "D.O." (or at
least the name and the official seal) either on the label, the back
label, or on a smaller sticker below the back label to make sure it
is what it says it is. If it isn't there, it may not be the real McCoy!!
Denominación de Origen Calificada
(D.O.Ca.) A D.O.Ca. is an even higher category than the D.O. and for
the moment only two wine regions, Rioja and Priorat, have earned this distinction.
Vino de la Tierra (or regional wine) is
often a small region aspiring to greater expectations, that is a D.O.
classification. The good thing about wines under this appellation is
that they tend to be cheaper than water and can be delicious. Plus,
some wineries use them to allow themselves more winemaking freedom,
like V.T. Castilla, for example. The downside is finding them abroad
may take some looking. But if you come across one, don't turn your
nose up at it.
Vino de Mesa (or Table Wine) This one
speaks for itself. It belongs to no specific region and may come from
anywhere in the country. Actually, most wine in Spain is Vino de
Mesa, but a large percentage is sold anonymously in bulk to foreign
nations for blending. Ironically, some very prestigious wines in the
past have been obligated to sell their wine as "Vino de
Mesa" simply because the winemakers did not wish to ascribe to
any D.O. and thus had to carry this generally non-flattering term. As
a whole, it's pretty basic stuff so keep that in mind before passing judgment.
Independent wineries You can also find a
number of wineries who have opted to stay clear of the D.O.'s
probably for the main reason of not having to adhere to any
restrictive legislation. Born Free and all that stuff! Some of these
vineyards produce Spain's finest and most select wines (Two have even
formed their own D.O.!!); others, though, drift on the other end of
the spectrum.
Trying to give you a taste for what's
available in Spain is no easy task
simply because of the immensity of the offer, but to help you get a
handle on things, let's list what kind of wine can be found in Spain
and what regions stand out for their quality. This will at least help
you orient yourself next time you are staring blank-faced at an
imposing wall of Spanish wine at the local store:
Red Wine Regions:
Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, Priorat, Navarra, Cariñena, La
Mancha, Valdepeñas, Jumilla, Bierzo, Almansa, Montsant, Yecla,
Campo de Borja, Castilla, Valdepeñas, Manchuela
White Wine Regions:
Rías Baixas (Albariño), Rueda, Penedès, Ribeiro
Valdeorras, Txacolí regions (Basque Country), Alella, Lanzarote
Rosés:
Navarra, Cigales, Utiel-Requena
Well-rounded Regions (Reds, whites and rosés):
Somontano, Penedès, Costers del Segres, Catalunya, Madrid
Fortified Wines:
Jerez (sherry), Montilla-Moriles, Malaga
Sparkling Wine: Cava
Sweet Wines (Type of Sweet Wine):
Valencia (Muscatel), Malaga (Pedro Ximenez), Montilla-Moriles (Pedro
Ximenez), Lanzarote (Malvasía)
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